Sydney: 17-19 November 2015

Tuesday

A few tearful goodbyes and two flights later, we were in Sydney! It was HOT. We caught the train into Green Square Station, and just as I boarded the escalator up to the exit I hear this familiar “helloooo” behind me. AIMEE! Yay! Reunited!! We then trecked the 30 minute walk to Aimee’s flat in the Australian heat of the day, uphill, lugging our suitcases. Aimee talked non-stop the entire way, she was so excited to have us there. Past Amelia Street (where the cool people live, obviously) and into her nice apartment for a sit down and a massive glass of water. I took off my supposedly comfortable shoes to find 8 new blisters. Ow. Aimee quickly cooked herself some dinner; Mal and I were still full from the plane. 

Then we set off on another walk, this time to Hillsong’s Heart and Soul night at their Doody St campus. We reached Hillsong just as worship was starting, and slipped into seats near the back of the Bondi section. The music was just phenomenal! I kept thinking of all the people at home who would love to have been here. We connected to the city campus with Brian speaking. It was really cool to see how the church connects over such a widespread number of campuses. It was a chilled sermon about opinions. Really on point. At one stage he was talking about how Americans think of hell as a swear word, and how they mumble it when singing worship songs that we sing normally. Then he said “but bugger and bloody, you wouldn’t hear them here would you?”, causing a burst of laughter in the auditorium. Afterwards we talked to the German pastor, and somehow Ralph came up. There were 5 of us from Life in Palmy and the pastor couldn’t believe it. So we all took a photo together for him to send to Ralph. I was fading fast by this point, the jetlag was starting to catch up with me and it was about 11pm at home. Thankfully Hannah gave us a ride back to the flat. I gratefully crawled into my bed (a mattress on the floor in the lounge). Sleeeeeeeep! 

Wednesday

Where the cool people live, obviously.

Aimee was working today, so Mallory and I took the chance to have a chilled morning, then headed out to tick off the tourist sites. It wound up being 36 degrees with glaring sunshine. Sydney is having a heatwave this week. It's going to be 41 on Friday, so I'm glad we leave in the morning!

Around 11am we headed to the train station, and it was already super hot. The intercom kept repeating “doors closing, please stand clear” over and over, to the point we thought it was broken. Then the train conductor came over the intercom and said in a very sassy Australian accent: “Because it seems to be rather confusing, when the message says ‘Doors closing, please stand clear’, it means the doors are closing, please stand clear”. Aussie hospitality at its finest... The train we were on broke down at the next station so we had a bit of a mission to find another one, but eventually made it into Circular Quay. That has to be one of the best views from a train station!! Absolutely stunning panorama of the MCA, Harbour Bridge and Opera House. 

The view from the Circular Quay train station. The Museum of Contemporary Art, Sydney Harbour Bridge, and the Opera House.

We headed to the Opera house first and got some great photos and views. 

Then around to the MCA where we were greeted by a very welcome gust of air conditioning as we entered the door. We stumbled upon a free guided tour which was great. I’m not a big fan of modern art, but at least this way I could understand it a bit more. We then headed up to the café on the top floor which was supposed to be the best view of the Opera House. Unfortunately, a giant cruise ship also knew this tip, and had parked right in the way. We still had a nice view of the bridge, but the food was expensive and average, so pretty disappointing.

At the MCA café: Lunch with a view

We then did a bit of shopping around the central city, but I was aware that this was only the beginning of a month-long trip and baggage allowances are limited. Back to Aimee's flat, we cooked a stir fry for dinner and sat around the table chatting until Mal and I almost fell asleep. Another early night, broken by some Kiwis trying to make us feel at home by doing a haka at the pub down the road at 10.30pm. Ah, New Zealand, I miss you.

Thursday

Thankfully it was cooler, so we decided on a walk around Surry Hills, a beautiful little suburb near Aimee’s flat with gorgeous Victorian terraces and quirky boutiques. We got a little lost, but ended up seeing some beautiful buildings, so who cares! We drifted into a not so nice area, and almost immediately a man approached us and said "Have a good weekend ladies, you look like you're dressed for it". But the two and a half hour walk was pleasant as there were lots of trees and a nice breeze. Running into Aimee's friend, the compliment "you all look lovely, so chic", was much more appreciated and less creepy than the earlier one from the stranger. We stopped at Devon on Danks café across from Hillsong's Danks Street campus for a drink and rest, before heading back to the flat for lunch and to get out of the heat for a bit.

Later on we headed out to Bondi Junction so Aimee could buy some summer clothes. We caught the bus, so it was great to see some more of Sydney through the windows. The aircon in the mall was very welcome, and we were there so long I actually got a little cold! Bliss!! Then home via the train and a walk through Red Fern – a bit run down and apparently a dodgy area but it was okay in the daylight. Back to the flat for some watermelon, sitting on the balcony in the breeze, and then repacking for the flight tomorrow morning. Singapore, here we come!!

Time To Say Goodbye

I have spent the last month since England making my way around the south of France, exploring villages, cities, castles, cathedrals, and markets, from Provence, to Aquitaine, to Burgundy. It has been a great experience, and I have had my French tested many times, but that was my favourite part - when people didn't speak any English and had never heard of New Zealand (we managed to hear Royals by Lorde countless of times nonetheless). I've noticed the major differences in culture and architecture as we slowly made our way from south east France, west, and then north. Some of which I would never have expected as French and was totally surprising, but fascinating in opening my eyes to the reality of a France that is so different from Paris.

Markets for miles in Provence

Breathtaking views of clifftop villages with derelict castles in the Provençal mountains

Losing ourselves in the narrow cobbled Medieval streets of Aquitaine

Daydreaming at castles in the Loire Valley

Feeling like a queen in my massive 19th century Paris hotel room

I'm sitting here in my Paris hotel room, after spending the last couple of days walking non-stop and then going to a service at the Notre Dame this morning, looking back over the last 3 months and wondering where the time went. I am so exhausted that I can't wait to get home, and yet it has all been so incredible that I don't want to leave (the 30-something hours of flying is daunting, too).  







It was strange wandering through the familiar streets of Paris again this weekend after being away for a couple of months. It has made me appreciate the changes in the seasons; seeing new flowers growing where there were once autumn leaves piled high, a huge influx of tourists in places that had seemed deserted... I much preferred our time in November, but my love for this place has remained. I have never felt so blessed in my life for the past 3 amazing months exploring places I have always dreamed about. This time itself now seems like a dream, and it has only inspired me to dream bigger and further. Watch out, Europe. I'll be back.

Goodbye Paris, and goodbye France. Thank you for the incredible times and the wonderful memories. I can't wait to be back.

Thanks for the memories, England

What an amazing time I've spent in England. I started in London, went north to the Cotswolds, south back to London, then south-er to Brighton, north to Yorkshire, south to Windsor, and west to Bath, before finishing the crazy 4 weeks in Windsor (with the Queen).

My camera died, my laptop keeps freezing, I lost my voice, and I haven't had a solid sleep in a very long time, but it has been awesome.

Taking over the band at The Perseverance

After Christmas in Yorkshire we came back to Windsor to bring in 2014. We spent the evening at the pub playing trivial pursuits, singing Auld Lang Syne while holding crossed hands, and the family joined in playing and singing with the live band. It was a nice, chilled night. New Years Day was spent watching a football game in torrential weather. Pretty British few days I think.

Fulham vs. Westham

Windsor Castle

Mum, Mel and I explored Windsor Castle after Dad and Ali had gone to Belfast. It was a great time to go as we got to see the rooms that the Queen still uses to entertain today, which are usually shut off to the public. Her flag was flying from the turrets, and her guards were marching around the grounds. All very exciting.

At Bridge Cottage in Bradford-on-Avon

Mel, Cryssie, Mum and I then set off on a girls' roadtrip across to Bradford-on-Avon, a cute little town next to Bath. On the way we stopped off at Lacock, a National Trust Village, which was absolutely gorgeous, although a little run down. When we walked into our cottage at Bradford-on-Avon we were wrapped with how adorable it was, and were stoked with the free cupcakes and bubbly. After about half an hour though, having everything covered with Cath Kidston flowers made us quite dizzy; we counted 9 different flower or animal patterns in one bedroom alone. Everything possible was Cath Kidston, including the wallpaper.

We spent the next day in Bath, which was so awesome! The architecture was divine, particularly the Royal Crescent and the Circus.

The Circus

The Royal Crescent

We also had high tea at the Jane Austen museum before doing the small tour. It was lots of fun dressing up at the end of the museum tour, but I'm definitely glad I can wear what I do now!

Lady Mawhinney and her three eligible daughters

The view over Bradford-on-Avon

We did a huge walk around Bradford-on-Avon, past the swollen river, up the hill via steep steps, to witness a gorgeous view of the town. We went shopping and found a shop called Piha after the beach in NZ! How funny.

The cricket ground

It's our last night tonight, and we're all having dinner together after a day doing last minute errands. The local village is quite flooded and there are many closed roads. The cricket ground is now the cricket lake, and we're just glad that Mel's apartment is three flights up!





Tomorrow we will return to France, and I have mixed feelings. I'm so exhausted that part of me would love it if the flight I boarded tomorrow would land me back in my bed in Palmy. But on the other hand, I'm so excited to see another part of the country and culture that I have been studying and obsessing about for years. I feel like I have forgotten all my French, but everyone keeps assuring me it will come back. I hope so. Speaking English has made this part of the journey a lot less stressful than where we go to next, but the challenge has been accepted and I can't wait to fulfill it, even with little voice and a cold.

Thank you England and my family for the great time and memories that we spent together. Can't wait to see you again in August. xxxxxx

London, Brighton and the Yorkshire Moors

Outside Once

After the Cotswolds I headed to London to spend time with Cryssie. We had a wicked time. We went to a show called Once which was incredible, we attended a Jamie Oliver cooking class which was heaps of fun, and explored the local markets which were funky.

Jamie's cooking lesson, and the results

At Spitalfields markets

On our last day before heading north for Christmas, we decided to do a day trip to Brighton. It was such a cool little city. We went first to the Royal Pavillion, expecting it to take us an hour, maybe two, and came out more than three hours later in the dark. Aside from being a fascinating tour in itself, we buddied up with a couple of the guides who took us into rooms and places unrestored and not open to the public. It was wicked! We saw behind secret doors and climbed up inside the tallest dome to see the 360 degree views across Brighton and out to the sea. Frustratingly, we couldn't take any photos at all inside the palace, so we will have to count on our memories to hold on tight to the places we explored.

The Royal Pavillion with its heavy Oriental influence

Christmas onesie!

We then trained up to Yorkshire, which was a hectic experience, as most of the trains had been cancelled due to a forecasted storm and the overflow of passengers were told to get our train. While I was waiting to board I was ambushed by Sky News who interviewed me about going away for Christmas. I was rather flustered and surprised by the spontaneous interview, much too early in the morning for me.

Up in Yorkshire we went to Scarborough for Mel's birthday on the 24th, and then before we knew it, Christmas had arrived. We've spent the week exploring local villages and towns, going to the beach, playing games, chatting and laughing, and eating lovely food. Sadly, we didn't get the snowy white Christmas we had hoped for, but as the fog was so low and thick one day, and everything seemed like a large white canvas, I'm claiming it.

Scarborough

Doing yoga poses on the rocks

Walking through the mist at sunset in the Yorkshire countryside

The remains of Whitby Abbey, on the clifftop overlooking the sea.

Whitby beach, wrapped up against the crazy English winter weather!

Adventures in the Cotswolds

There's even a maypole in the village! 

After a sad goodbye to the beautiful Paris, we caught the Eurostar across to London and then made our way up into the Cotswolds. We arrived just after the sun had set behind our cute terraced Rose Cottage. Welford-on-Avon is a gorgeous little village of thatched black and white Tudor cottages and red-brick terraces, an iconic English community.

On Sunday we walked past two cottages to the little Methodist church. It was interesting to participate in such a traditional service, with the other 12 or so congregation members of which the average age was 70. Hehe exactly what I had imagined a village church service to be like - think Vicar of Dibley-esque.

We then visited Charlecote Park, and estate belonging to the Lucy family and closely linked to Shakespeare. It is rumoured that he was caught and prosecuted for poaching deer from the estate. The house was originally Tudor but had been extended and redecorated in the Victorian era. It was such a shame that they only had 4 rooms open for the winter, and none of them upstairs. At least we got to see where Queen Elizabeth I stayed when she visited. There was a brass band playing Christmas carols in the garden, and surprisingly plenty of families playing in the grounds. The working Victorian kitchen and carriage collection was also a highlight. I even found people trying to master an apparently Victorian style of napkin folding - the rose that I've been doing for Christmas for years! How funny.

Charlecote Park - gorgeous

Shakespeare's birthplace

Monday we ventured into Stratford-upon-Avon with Shakespeare on the brain. First to his birthplace, and watching two actors performing one of his songs from Much Ado About Nothing in his old bedroom.

Then lunch in a tea room across from the house, scones obviously, and I ordered a Christmasy (at least that's my excuse) Baileys hot chocolate. I'm pretty sure the mug was half hot chocolate half Baileys. I couldn't finish it!

Shakespeare's grave

We then drove out to Anne Hathaway's family house (Shakespeare's wife). We had a brilliant guide there who was clearly passionate about the history of the town, and it was infectious! She told us the origins behind 'crossing the threshold', 'chair of the board', 'upper-crust' and 'cut above the rest'. I had no idea that Anne was 26 and 3 months pregnant when she married the 18 year old William, who needed his parents permission as he was still a minor! Then off to Holy Trinity church which holds the Shakespeare family graves. Beautiful church and fascinating to read the 'curse' carved into William's tomb "Good frend for Jesus sake forebeare, To digg the dust encloased heare, Bleste be the man that spares thes stones, And curst be he that moves my bones". 



On Tuesday, a beautifully clear blue skied day, we decided to explore the beautiful Cotswold villages that we'd read about. First off was Chipping Campden, a pretty little village with a mile-long high street filled with an antique fair and little boutiques. The cobbled flooring in the Market Hall was so bumpy that I could hardly walk along it. It made me wonder whether it had always been like that, or if I was experiencing extreme erosion from centuries of feet walking the same path.

Then on to Broadway, a bigger village which had even more beautiful old-world cottages, and plenty of tea rooms for lunch. There are now probably a lot of English people in the Cotswolds who wonder what weird tourists were doing photographing their homes. Mum even snuck through the gates in a stone wall to get a snap of a particularly beautiful house! 

The castle-church with leper holes

Wednesday morning we decided to go for a walk before the rain set in again. Down the bridleway beside the Avon river for about half an hour before we came out at a lovely little hamlet with a castle-styled church and graveyard. The church has holes in the walls that are perfectly angled so that lepers could participate in the service and take communion without mingling with the rest of the congregation. Is this gorgeous little hamlet there is also an unmanned farm shop with an honesty box. Love it! You couldn't do that where I grew up! Thoroughly unaware of where we were, we asked locals for directions and were pointed in the direction of a public footpath back to Welford-on-Avon. This 'footpath' was merely a farmer's field that you could walk across. I felt so bad walking across the churned up sown land, not to mention my boots became caked in mud. Eventually we found our way out again and stumbled onto the road, two doors down from our house!

After a late lunch we decided to head out to the Fleece Inn, a 16th century pub loaded with history. We sat by the open fire, and had to duck to get under warped doorways 2 feet too short, as well as in between the large ceiling beams. Love it! It's exactly the sort of place I wanted to see; it's so completely different to anything in NZ. Although, it did bring back memories of the Jolly Farmer in Drury.

The Fleece Inn

I've packed my things, ready to catch the train to London for a show and sibling time tomorrow. This week has been a restful time completely contrasting from the culture and activities of Paris. I look forward to the change but have been glad for the break.

21! Birthday weekend in Paris

What a crazy 6 days we've had here.

Mel and Ali arrived on Thursday lunch time, and that night we went to a wicked jazz gig in a little bar. The band was in the cellar, so we were surrounded by curved stone walls in an odd shaped room, it was so cool. We sat with some French people who were super friendly, and included us in their game of guessing the songs and artists. They even asked if Ali wanted to get up and have a jam with the band. The music was great, and apart from a super affectionate couple almost lying in my lap sucking each others' faces, it was really fun.




Friday Mel, Ali and I went to the Louvre so that they could see the Mona Lisa, and I showed them the grand masters, as well as the super cool video portrait of Lady Gaga replicating a famous painting. We took them to Place des Vosges, my favourite place here, and then went for drinks. Dave arrived late that night in time for the dinner the next day.

About to eat the snail

Saturday I checked Facebook to find that Cryssie was sitting next to my friend Stacey from Palmy on the Eurostar to Paris! What are the chances, huh? My birthday dinner was Saturday night, and we headed over to the Eiffel Tower early to take family photos in front of it. It was heaps of fun, and we stopped for drinks on the way to the restaurant. The restaurant was on Rue Amelie, and was a gorgeous typical French restaurant that must have seated 20 people at most. It was perfect. I even ate a snail! They put a lit candle in my crêpes for dessert, and overall it was a really fun evening.

Sacre Coeur with Stacey

Sunday morning was a lazy one, and I managed to get in touch with Stacey and her mum. Jess, Mel's friend, joined us and we all headed up to the outskirts of northern Paris to the famous Marché aux Puces (flea market). There were lovely things there, but out of my price range, and we decided that since we were so close we would walk to Sacre Coeur. What a steep climb! It was worth it though, as we came up the back way and through the Christmas markets. What a beautiful church, and an amazing view. We then headed home and Stacey found a beautiful dress for her graduation at Acquarêves, where I bought my birthday dress; she looks absolutely stunning in it. It was so much fun sharing Paris with Stacey and her mum, as well as having Jess, a local, to show us around the less touristy places. That night we played the most hilarious game, Heads Up, a very Mawhinney family game (loud and energetic).



Monday was my actual birthday, and I woke up to find Mel and Ali had prepared a lovely champagne breakfast with croissants and fruit. It was perfect! I was given some lovely presents and it was a nice slow start to the day. Mel was left at 3, and then we headed out for a boat ride on the Seine. It was brilliant but absolutely freezing! So neat to see Paris from a different point of view. Pizza for dinner at the Italian restaurant downstairs, and games afterwards ended my birthday.

Today (Tuesday) the girls went shopping while the boys went to the Champs Elysées. Crys and Ali have now left on the evening Eurostar and we have the apartment to ourselves once more.




I do love this city, and I can't believe I have to leave it in a couple of days.


 

Versailles

Wow, what an AMAZING day!

I was up at 6.30am while it was still very dark to get ready to get the bus to the Château de Versailles, the Sun King's (Louis XIV) life project. Naturally I was running late, so I ran-walked to the metro to get to the bus terminal in time. Waiting for the bus we saw the sunrise over the Tuileries gardens in front of the Louvre. One of the very rare occasions I have ever seen a sunrise, mornings are not my thing, and to see one here was magical. It doesn't induce me to wake up early tomorrow though!

The sun rose into brilliantly clear blue skies as the double-decker bus weaved its way through the Parisian rush hour traffic. Slowly we left the built up city behind and came to almost countryside before entering the old city of Versailles. Built up to house the courtiers of Louis XIV, the city was once the capital of France, and now boasts 90,000 inhabitants. 

Tapestries line the walls of the Palace

On arriving at the palace, I was surprised at the lack of grandeur that greeted me. Apart from the black and gold fencing and gates, the building seemed quite plain, and not as ornate as I was expecting. It was huge, of course, much bigger than any family could possibly need surely, but the stone was quite simple. I later discovered how much this exterior greatly contrasts with the over-the-top interior more familiar to me as a royal household. 

The famous Hall of Mirrors

We made our way through with our tour guide, Joelle, who filled us in on all the historical contexts and explained what we were seeing. Her knowledge was amazing, and her ability to fluently speak immediately in three languages incredible. I can only aspire to be that comfortable in two! I was surprised at how packed the palace was, much more crowded than we have experienced anywhere in Paris, including the Louvre.



After the tour we were given free time to wander around the gardens. In the souvenir store I found a poster of Bonaparte's family tree, Gran - I found Elizabeth Paterson on it!!!! (although they spelt her name wrong) And her son Jêrome, and his child. I will show you when I get home. With the family connection I naturally had to buy it. (My ancestor Elizabeth married Napoleon's brother Jêrome Bonaparte, but was forced to divorce her while she was pregnant with their son in order to marry a princess of Napoleon's choosing).

Queen/Amelia's bedroom ;)

Don't you hate it when you forget your keys and have to stand outside your golden gates like a tourist?

A quick wander through the gardens with amazing views before catching the petit train (little train) to the restaurant for lunch. The chocolate cake for dessert was the best bit, and the fresh bread of course. Our table consisted of the three of us (native language English), a lovely brother and sister from Peru (native language Spanish and very little English spoken), and a sweet elder man from Japan (native language Japanese, obviously, and even less English and no Spanish). It made for a very interesting meal, but we managed to keep a conversation going, and again I was embarrassed at how well other language speakers can speak English and feel inadequate not being able to speak theirs. 

Finally a brief (literally just for this photo) sit down by the Grand Canal after hours of non-stop walking!

Another boutique and purchases made of books (again, oops), before we walked back to the Grand Trianon. This was made as the summer holiday home for the royal family, and therefore was much simpler in style and more appealing.  

The Gallerie des Cotelle in the Grand Trianon

What a beautiful setting

Cute family shot outside the Grand Trianon

Marie Antoinette's sitting room in the Petit Trianon. The shutters
across the windows could either have a mirror facing into the room,
or be wound down to cover the windows of the floor underneath.

Onto the Petit Trianon, my personal favourite, the house built for the King's mistress which then belonged to Marie Antoinette and was decorated in her style. The colours were soft pastels and the walls were generally plain white. It felt very feminine and homely. Apparently, when the trianon belonged to the King's mistress, there was a spiral staircase leading directly to her bedroom, for obvious reasons. However, when King Louis XVI gave it to Marie Antoinette, along with the comment "this was built for the King's favourite [mistress], but you are my only favourite, I want to give it to you", she had the spiral staircase removed so that she could refuse the King if she so chose. It was one of the very few places where she could control everything. As the guide said, she was a very Revolutionary woman. 

M and A for Marie Antoinette... or Amelia Mawhinney?

Just chilling in front of my summer house, the Petit Trianon haha

The Temple of Love, cue forever alone meme haha

We then walked through the gorgeous gardens, past all the little summer houses, lakes and statues, to Marie Antoinette's Hamlet. She had her favourite artist go up to Normady and find beautiful villages and paint them, in order to recreate one in the palace grounds. What resulted was a gorgeous collection of buildings, reminiscent of Marie's native Austria, where she was able to play 'milk-maid' and teach her children about more average everyday life things. She even famously had a cow cleaned before showing her children how to milk it!

Marie Antoinette's Hamlet

Cute little cottage in the Hamlet

It was a lovely end to a fascinating day, in fact the last two places in the tour were my favourite; much more so than the palace. I led the long walk back to the bus in order to get the best seats upstairs, an Australian man and daughter started trying to discreetly sneak past me nearer the end for the same reason, so I merely lengthened my strides while they had to half-jog and eventually gave up. Muahaha, the seats were mine, God bless my long legs. They were worth it too. The views of not only the sunset in Versailles but of Paris lit up were beautiful, and I may have snapped a gazillion more photos of the illuminated Eiffel tower. Hey, it was my tourist day. 

Now my legs and feet are very tired, and I'm on the couch with a hottie (bottle, not guy sadly haha) and my laptop, but it wont be long before I hit the sack.