Adventures in the Cotswolds

There's even a maypole in the village! 

After a sad goodbye to the beautiful Paris, we caught the Eurostar across to London and then made our way up into the Cotswolds. We arrived just after the sun had set behind our cute terraced Rose Cottage. Welford-on-Avon is a gorgeous little village of thatched black and white Tudor cottages and red-brick terraces, an iconic English community.

On Sunday we walked past two cottages to the little Methodist church. It was interesting to participate in such a traditional service, with the other 12 or so congregation members of which the average age was 70. Hehe exactly what I had imagined a village church service to be like - think Vicar of Dibley-esque.

We then visited Charlecote Park, and estate belonging to the Lucy family and closely linked to Shakespeare. It is rumoured that he was caught and prosecuted for poaching deer from the estate. The house was originally Tudor but had been extended and redecorated in the Victorian era. It was such a shame that they only had 4 rooms open for the winter, and none of them upstairs. At least we got to see where Queen Elizabeth I stayed when she visited. There was a brass band playing Christmas carols in the garden, and surprisingly plenty of families playing in the grounds. The working Victorian kitchen and carriage collection was also a highlight. I even found people trying to master an apparently Victorian style of napkin folding - the rose that I've been doing for Christmas for years! How funny.

Charlecote Park - gorgeous

Shakespeare's birthplace

Monday we ventured into Stratford-upon-Avon with Shakespeare on the brain. First to his birthplace, and watching two actors performing one of his songs from Much Ado About Nothing in his old bedroom.

Then lunch in a tea room across from the house, scones obviously, and I ordered a Christmasy (at least that's my excuse) Baileys hot chocolate. I'm pretty sure the mug was half hot chocolate half Baileys. I couldn't finish it!

Shakespeare's grave

We then drove out to Anne Hathaway's family house (Shakespeare's wife). We had a brilliant guide there who was clearly passionate about the history of the town, and it was infectious! She told us the origins behind 'crossing the threshold', 'chair of the board', 'upper-crust' and 'cut above the rest'. I had no idea that Anne was 26 and 3 months pregnant when she married the 18 year old William, who needed his parents permission as he was still a minor! Then off to Holy Trinity church which holds the Shakespeare family graves. Beautiful church and fascinating to read the 'curse' carved into William's tomb "Good frend for Jesus sake forebeare, To digg the dust encloased heare, Bleste be the man that spares thes stones, And curst be he that moves my bones". 



On Tuesday, a beautifully clear blue skied day, we decided to explore the beautiful Cotswold villages that we'd read about. First off was Chipping Campden, a pretty little village with a mile-long high street filled with an antique fair and little boutiques. The cobbled flooring in the Market Hall was so bumpy that I could hardly walk along it. It made me wonder whether it had always been like that, or if I was experiencing extreme erosion from centuries of feet walking the same path.

Then on to Broadway, a bigger village which had even more beautiful old-world cottages, and plenty of tea rooms for lunch. There are now probably a lot of English people in the Cotswolds who wonder what weird tourists were doing photographing their homes. Mum even snuck through the gates in a stone wall to get a snap of a particularly beautiful house! 

The castle-church with leper holes

Wednesday morning we decided to go for a walk before the rain set in again. Down the bridleway beside the Avon river for about half an hour before we came out at a lovely little hamlet with a castle-styled church and graveyard. The church has holes in the walls that are perfectly angled so that lepers could participate in the service and take communion without mingling with the rest of the congregation. Is this gorgeous little hamlet there is also an unmanned farm shop with an honesty box. Love it! You couldn't do that where I grew up! Thoroughly unaware of where we were, we asked locals for directions and were pointed in the direction of a public footpath back to Welford-on-Avon. This 'footpath' was merely a farmer's field that you could walk across. I felt so bad walking across the churned up sown land, not to mention my boots became caked in mud. Eventually we found our way out again and stumbled onto the road, two doors down from our house!

After a late lunch we decided to head out to the Fleece Inn, a 16th century pub loaded with history. We sat by the open fire, and had to duck to get under warped doorways 2 feet too short, as well as in between the large ceiling beams. Love it! It's exactly the sort of place I wanted to see; it's so completely different to anything in NZ. Although, it did bring back memories of the Jolly Farmer in Drury.

The Fleece Inn

I've packed my things, ready to catch the train to London for a show and sibling time tomorrow. This week has been a restful time completely contrasting from the culture and activities of Paris. I look forward to the change but have been glad for the break.