Les Passages de Paris

Today we went to the covered passages in Paris, including Galerie Vivienne, Passage du Grand Cerf, et Passage du Choiseul. 

Galerie Vivienne

I am yet to grasp opening days/hours in Paris, and when we walked into Passage du Grand Cerf (11am) almost all of the stores were shut because it was Monday. It was a beautiful sight, nonetheless. I could almost see the women (for whom these galeries were designed in the 1800s), in their long dresses with wide skirts, gracefully gliding along the passage gossiping amongst themselves, gazing through the shop windows at tasteful displays, while their chaperones in carriages waited patiently at the end. We were luckier at Galerie Vivienne, where the most gorgeous old librairie was, absolutely jammed full of beautiful leather-bound novels. Of course, as is the Paris way, the shop advertised opening hours from 11am on Mondays and at 11.30 there was no sign of the owner. We wandered around the gallery until 12pm when he arrived and began bringing out his displays so that you could actually get into the store. Malheuresement, he didn't have Les Mis, but he was so sweet and apologetic. He was an exact replica of the elderly French bookstore owner that you imagine when you think of Paris. Parfait! 

We then went to Ultramod, a gorgeous set of merceries across the road from each other, one selling old fashioned lace, threads, and a few fabrics, and the other focusing on older materials to make hats. The old man who owns both stores hates to sell his precious collection, and will often try to talk people out of buying anything. We sadly didn't get to meet this well-known owner, but the ladies we did converse with were just the sweetest. Adorable store! I bought some (expensive) lace there that is just beautiful, I can't wait to find an excuse to use it! There were many a lace there that would be perfect for a wedding dress...

We then realised if we didn't nab a table at a café soon (12.30pm), we wouldn't have a show. After 12.30/1pm tables are harder to find in Paris than an ugly street. We quickly entered the nearest crêperie, and managed to get the last table in a very full restaurant. The tables are so pushed together in cafés here that we literally had to move ours and the neighbour's out so that I could get into my seat. I wasn't fussed with the savoury crêpe, but loved the sweet one. 10/10.

Across the road we spotted Passage du Choiseul, and decided to use it as a shortcut to the Jardin des Tuileries. It turned out to be another beautiful passage, and we found a great inexpensive store where we purchased scarves and earrings. It's great being here before Christmas, as all the stores offer to wrap your purchases for you. Plus all the decorations and lights add to the romantic-ness that is Paris.

Le Jardin des Tuileries

Eventually we ended up at the gardens, although I'm sure we got there through a very round-about way. The views of perfectly trimmed rows of orange leaved trees was beautiful, enhanced by the carousel light up by fairylights, and the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe in the background. Across le jardin to the Seine and down to Pont des Arts, the famous padlock bridge. One day I will put a padlock on it with my husband =)







I found a gorgeous old map of Paris at one of the bouqinistes along the Seine on the way home, which is another thing ticked off my list. A chocolat chaud et café au lait later, and after more than 10km of walking, we finally arrived back at our apartment. I had a long relaxing soak in the bath while mum wrote her blog, and now we're watching a Friends marathon. What could be more perfect than this?